Shanghai, Beijing and many sights around
Having checked into the second hostel in Shanghai I couldn't fail to notice the veritable heap of backpackers that were constantly coming and going, or just as often sitting or surfing the web. After checking in I quickly got chatting to some of the people in my dorm and the following day I set out with a Peruvian guy who now lives in Switzerland and a German guy to the nearby city of Suzhou which is reputed to have attractive canals and traditional Chinese gardens. The day didn't start well; although we didn't get set off as early as we'd planned we got to the train station at 9.30 only to be told there were no trains for two hours. However my trusted Rough Guide indicated a bus to Suzhou could be found nearby so we went in search of it. This didn't prove easy. Following several attempts at asking locals around the station by pointing at the Chinese characters for 'Suzhou' and 'long distance bus terminal' we eventually more or less stumbled across the coach station through noticing its rather extensive and bewildering array of scrolling departure boards which show all the departures for the entire day should you chose to hang around long enough and watch them. Tickets were easier to come by, although the first bus was full meaning we had to hang aroud for the departure a little after 11am, which was about 40 minutes away. Still we had killed some time and it was looking as if we'd still get there marginally before the train.
Suzhou itself didn't prove quite the peaceful and idyllic spot I'd somehow got it into my head that it would be. For one thing it was filled with the same wide busy roads as other Chinese cities and there were a barrage of rickshaws waiting to hassle you on leaving the bus station and finding yourself on a major road that was nevertheless not listed on any of our maps. Fortunately we found our way and escaped the bus station hustle. As it was the city centre seemed to be a good deal more spread out than expected, meaning that in the end we ended up visiting just one garden and getting lunch and otherwise wandering the streets to the next destination but finding it was much further than anticipated and to be closed by the time we'd got there. The garden we did visit was nevertheless a peaceful and attractive spot to spend some time and the wider city did offer some canals, although they did vary in their appeal and several did smell rather pungent to say the least. So it was that as evening was approaching we made our way to the Suzhou train station and once again we are told that the first available train is in two hours, something that seems unbelievable given that this must be something of a relatively major line. Yet again we look for the bus station, albeit at the opposite end of town to one we arrived in. Locals proved generally unhelpful and although we seemed to pass through something of a depot for both long distance and city buses the terminal elluded us. The situation wasn't helped by a group of Chinese men who we tried to ask telling us that the last bus had gone for the day and that we'd have to take an expensive taxi. Obviously not willing to fall for that one we decided to head back to the station and wait for the train. Fortunately after just a few minutes walk we spied another likely looking building with yet another grand departure board. We enquired within, ignored the hustlers and got ourselves tickets for the still very much running buses back to Shanghai. Not a terribly productive day but good fun given the company and plenty of experience gained as to the workings of Chinese transport and the Chinese more generally.
Following a day of sightseeing taking in what sights I hadn't visited already my time in Shanghai was over. I found my escape under cover of darkness, taking the sleeper train overnight to Beijing. Travelling in 'soft sleeper' class I shared my compartment with two Chinese men who both spoke English and as a result we had a helpful discussion about the variety of destinations worth visiting in the country. I arrived in Beijing early on Tuesday morning and having checked into the hostel decided to set back out to the Forbidden City which having only shortly before opened for the day proved pleasantly uncrowded, unlike a few hours later when I came to leave by when the hoardes of tourists were storming in. The Forbidden City is somewhat how you might imagine; a large complex of buildings in the familiar imperial Chinese style, each with its own purpose and history and with many housing different types of exhibits. It's too big to take all of it in during a single visit but I got around a good deal.
Today was the biggest highlight of China so far as I took on the Great Wall. Taking a trip arranged at the hostel I was driven with other westerners from the hostel to Jinshanling and from there we had to cover 6 miles in 5 hours to reach Simatai. It doesn't sound like a great distance, but this stretch of wall has largely been left to mother nature meaning that much of it is in varying states of disrepair, and that's without mentioning the many steep climbs and descents as the wall makes its way over the hill tops. The experience, albeit hard work was fantastic, the wall's state and setting was as you'd expect and the views superb. Although there were regular groups of local Chinese at the towers along the way trying to flog drinks and tourist books the path was otherwise lightly trodden with only the people from our own minibus and one or two others evident along the way. This is certainly what I was hoping for and it all made for a welcome change from the big cities.
No photos uploaded as yet as this internet cafe doesn't allow me to do that, but I'll look at getting some online soon.
Suzhou itself didn't prove quite the peaceful and idyllic spot I'd somehow got it into my head that it would be. For one thing it was filled with the same wide busy roads as other Chinese cities and there were a barrage of rickshaws waiting to hassle you on leaving the bus station and finding yourself on a major road that was nevertheless not listed on any of our maps. Fortunately we found our way and escaped the bus station hustle. As it was the city centre seemed to be a good deal more spread out than expected, meaning that in the end we ended up visiting just one garden and getting lunch and otherwise wandering the streets to the next destination but finding it was much further than anticipated and to be closed by the time we'd got there. The garden we did visit was nevertheless a peaceful and attractive spot to spend some time and the wider city did offer some canals, although they did vary in their appeal and several did smell rather pungent to say the least. So it was that as evening was approaching we made our way to the Suzhou train station and once again we are told that the first available train is in two hours, something that seems unbelievable given that this must be something of a relatively major line. Yet again we look for the bus station, albeit at the opposite end of town to one we arrived in. Locals proved generally unhelpful and although we seemed to pass through something of a depot for both long distance and city buses the terminal elluded us. The situation wasn't helped by a group of Chinese men who we tried to ask telling us that the last bus had gone for the day and that we'd have to take an expensive taxi. Obviously not willing to fall for that one we decided to head back to the station and wait for the train. Fortunately after just a few minutes walk we spied another likely looking building with yet another grand departure board. We enquired within, ignored the hustlers and got ourselves tickets for the still very much running buses back to Shanghai. Not a terribly productive day but good fun given the company and plenty of experience gained as to the workings of Chinese transport and the Chinese more generally.
Following a day of sightseeing taking in what sights I hadn't visited already my time in Shanghai was over. I found my escape under cover of darkness, taking the sleeper train overnight to Beijing. Travelling in 'soft sleeper' class I shared my compartment with two Chinese men who both spoke English and as a result we had a helpful discussion about the variety of destinations worth visiting in the country. I arrived in Beijing early on Tuesday morning and having checked into the hostel decided to set back out to the Forbidden City which having only shortly before opened for the day proved pleasantly uncrowded, unlike a few hours later when I came to leave by when the hoardes of tourists were storming in. The Forbidden City is somewhat how you might imagine; a large complex of buildings in the familiar imperial Chinese style, each with its own purpose and history and with many housing different types of exhibits. It's too big to take all of it in during a single visit but I got around a good deal.
Today was the biggest highlight of China so far as I took on the Great Wall. Taking a trip arranged at the hostel I was driven with other westerners from the hostel to Jinshanling and from there we had to cover 6 miles in 5 hours to reach Simatai. It doesn't sound like a great distance, but this stretch of wall has largely been left to mother nature meaning that much of it is in varying states of disrepair, and that's without mentioning the many steep climbs and descents as the wall makes its way over the hill tops. The experience, albeit hard work was fantastic, the wall's state and setting was as you'd expect and the views superb. Although there were regular groups of local Chinese at the towers along the way trying to flog drinks and tourist books the path was otherwise lightly trodden with only the people from our own minibus and one or two others evident along the way. This is certainly what I was hoping for and it all made for a welcome change from the big cities.
No photos uploaded as yet as this internet cafe doesn't allow me to do that, but I'll look at getting some online soon.
posted by Daniel at 2:45 pm
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